James Kochan is the spirit behind the development of this round jacket pattern. We began work together in 1990. He provided the concept that the cuff had to be added to the documented sleeve length. He also suggested the height of the collar with documentation from the National Archives. The other vital person, who even James Kochan will acknowledge shared his research with a teenaged James, is Stephen Osman. Stephen has been researching in the National Archives for over thirty-five years. All of us in costume history owe a debt of thanks to Stephen Osman and James Kochan. Without their determination to find and share accurate information, costume history—particularly military costume history—would be less developed and refined.
The pattern matches the measurements of the U.S. Army correspondence of 1812 describing the size No. 2 of the Linen Jacket with Sleeves. The sizes No. 1 [38], No. 3 [42], and No. 4 [44] are extrapolated from the No. 2 [40].
Of 58 inch wool cloth the jacket: Sizes 1 requires 1-5/8 Yds.; 2 requires 1-2/3 Yds.; 3 requires 1-3/4 Yds.; 4 requires 1-7/8. Of 45 inch wool or linen Sizes 1 requires 2-1/8 Yds.; 2 requires 2-1/3 Yds.; 3 requires 2-1/2 Yds.; 4 requires 2-5/8 Yds.
