Civil War Era Past Pattern
#009: Double-Breasted Summer Paletot
The popularity of the paletot in the mid-19th century is without question. Farid Chemoune, author of A History of Men's Fashion, quotes La Fashion which lamented in 1840, "Paletots, yet more paletots, more paletots still! They have become more fashionable for every class, for every hour of the day, for every occasion." The paletot is cut with a separate side-body, which makes it fit the body closely. Because it fits the body closely it replaces a frock coat.
The pattern contains a brief history of the paletot from the 1840's-1870's which describes the difference between a paletot and a frock coat: hand sewing instructions, alterations and sewing instructions in 11 well-illustrated steps.
Past Patterns' Summer Paletot makes up into a plain-cut, straight-front informal coat that is used for everyday summer wear. It is the unlined, starched, and washable variety worn with a starched shirt #007, lightly starched washable summer vest and unlined, lightly starched washable summer trousers #014 or #015. Also consider wearing drawers #006.
Order the pattern in one of the Three Chest Sizes: Sizes 34"-38", Sizes 40"- 46", and Sizes 48"- 54".
The Fabric Requirements are for a man who stands 5'6" tall. Add 2"-4" for every 1" of height above 5'6". Sizes 34"-38" require 4-7/8 Yds., sizes 40"-44" require 5-1/3 Yds., sizes 48"-54" require 6 Yds. of 45" wide fabric.
Fashion Fabric Suggestions: Bottom Weight Fabrics in Cotton ˜ prints, satin weave (natural and white), seersucker (blue/white, brown/white, black/white) and 1/4" to 1" woven checks (green/white, brown/white, blue/white). Linen ˜ natural and white plain weave, natural or white drill and satin weave, 1/4" to 1" woven checks (green/white, brown/white, blue/white).
Notions: Buttons: Twelve 3/4" to 1-1/8" self-covered, four hole China or calico, two or four hole ocean or fresh water pearl buttons. If hand sewing use 40/2 or 50/2 or 60/2 white, brown, natural or blue linen hand sewing thread; bees'-wax to wax the thread; tailor's blue chalk for marking and 1 Qt. of liquid starch.
Matching Patterns: Wear this paletot with Past Patterns' #006 1800-1890s Men's Drawers, #007, Two Mid-Nineteenth Century Shirts, #014: Classic Plain-Cut Summer Trousers of the Mid-19th Century (Michelle, please link #006, #007, #014 and cross-link each of these with #009).
This pattern is copyrighted and is for personal non-commercial use only.