This tailcoat has a waist seam and is double breasted with
the bottom two buttons meant to be buttoned. When buttoned
the collar and lapels bow out to make room for shirt, cravat,
and up to two vests. The collar stands approximately 3 inches
tall at the back of the neck when folded over. The front of the
coat is cut broad and the back narrow, forcing an erect stance
or may even throw the shoulders back. The fit is very close.
The sleeves are very long, meaning to end at the wrist or
longer, with the cuffs adding another 3 inches so that the
sleeves with cuffs end at the knuckles of the hand. The sleeves
fit very closely except at the top where they are puffed and full.
The shoulders are cut very narrow. There are two separate tails
that overlap at center back. The coat has an inside breast
pocket and there are two tail pockets. The back has two pocket
flaps that are only decorative. View A can be made with any
wool. Views B, D, D, and E have a collar and lapel that must be
made with wool that does not ravel or ravels very little.
View A lapel is a simple notched collar, which could be made
with the upper collar of velvet if desired. View B is a small
"M" notch. View C was called a "Lark's Tongue" notch and
is very pointed. View D is a wide "M" notch. View E is a long
touching "M" notch. The instructions have both period and
modem (theatrical) tailoring instructions. Information about
fabric, interfacing, lining, fit, and supplies sources are
included inside the pattern.
Fabric: Wool 12 to 24 oz. This type of fairly thick, felted wool
can be called Melton, Coating, Pilot Cloth, Doeskin,
Broadcloth, or Flannel. Sleeve Lining and Pocketing:
Bleached Muslin or modem lining fabric.
Chest Interfacing: Linen canvas or modem hair canvas interfacing.
Collar and Front Facing Interfacing: Wool Melton or
Linen Canvas or modem hair canvas interfacing.
Optional inside lining: Silk Faille or modem lining. Notions:
Sixteen 5/8" or 3/4" shank buttons, four 3/8" or 1/2" shank
buttons. Optional for modem construction: 1/4" Fusible stay tape