Men's Regency Tailcoat Dress Coat Jacket Sewing Pattern #121 (Pattern Only)
Men's Regency Tailcoat with Five Collar and Lapel Options - 1810-1830: Vest not included. This tailcoat has a waist seam and is double breasted with the bottom two buttons meant to be but-toned. When buttoned the collar and lapels bow out to make room for shirt, cravat, and up to two vests. The collar stands approximately 3 inches tall at the back of the neck when folded over. The front of the coat is cut broad and the back narrow, forcing an erect stance or may even throw the shoulders back. The fit is very close. The sleeves are very long, meaning to end at the wrist or longer, with the cuffs adding another 3 inches so that the sleeves with cuffs end at the knuckles of the hand. The sleeves fit very closely except at the top where they are puffed and full. The shoulders are cut very narrow. There are two separate tails that overlap at center back. The coat has an inside breast pocket and there are two tail pockets. The back has two pocket flaps that are only decorative. View A can be made with any wool. Views B, D, D, and E have a collar and lapel that must be made with wool that does not ravel or ravels very little. View A lapel is a simple notched collar, which could be made with the upper collar of velvet if desired. View B is a small M notch. View C was called a Lark's Tongue notch and is very pointed. View D is a wide M notch. View E is a long touching M notch. The instructions have both period and modern (theatrical) tailoring instructions. Information about fabric, interfacing, lining, fit, and supplies sources are included inside the pattern.
Fabric: Wool 12 to 24 oz. This type of fairly thick, felted wool can be called Melton, Coating, Pilot Cloth, Doeskin, Broadcloth, or Flannel. Sleeve Lining and Pocketing: Bleached Muslin or modern lining fabric. Chest Interfacing: Linen canvas or modern hair canvas interfacing. Collar and Front Facing Interfacing: Wool Melton or Linen Canvas or modern hair canvas interfacing. Optional inside lining: Silk Faille or modern lining. Notions: Six-teen 5/8" or 3/4" shank buttons, four 3/8" or 1/2" shank buttons. Optional for modern construction: 1/4" Fusible stay tape.