There are instructions if the maker wishes to change the neckline to
one of their own design. Views A and B use a short sleeve with
optional cutouts. View A uses the cutout short sleeve with either a
ribbon made from fabric, or a purchased ribbon, woven through the
cutouts. View B has gathered puffs protruding from the cutouts
resembling slash and puff (or pouf) Renaissance style sleeves.
View C uses a double layer petal edge short sleeve, with both layers
having a faced edge. View D uses the short sleeve without cutouts
paired with the long sleeve which can be layered either over or
under the short sleeve. The long sleeve can be gathered in at the
wrist alone or at several places on the arm. The gown has a separate belt which can
be omitted or replaced with a purchased ribbon sash. The skirt has front, side back,
and back pieces. The back of the skirt attaches to the bodice with 6 pleats on each
side, with the center 2 pleats forming a box pleat. The skirt is the same length all the
way around. The bodice in all views is formed with a front, side, and back pieces.
The back of the bodice can close with an overlap, or as in some period examples, can
close so that the center backs just meet. Optional piping can be added to seams, belt,
and bands, and instructions for creating piping are included. The neckline is finished
with bias binding, which may or may not be piped as desired. The skirt can be left
plain or elaborately trimmed. There are also instructions for finishing the bottom of
the hem with wide cording if desired. There are yardages and instructions for the
two types of skirt trim shown on View C and D, both petal (zigzag) and scalloped
Fabric: Cotton, Linen, Wool, or Silk. Fabric with drape is not recommended.
Plain, figured, striped, checked, velvet or velveteen. Thick fabric will complicate the
Lining: Cotton muslin. The skirt is not lined.
Interfacing: Hair canvas or medium linen.
Notions: Plain cotton kitchen twine for piping, or piping
can be bought pre-made. Cording for the bottom of the skirt 4 Yards of 3/8 inch
Cotton Filler Cord. Ribbon trim for View B Sleeves-4 yards of 1" wide ribbon or
1/2 yard fabric.
Closures: Buttons, hooks and eyes, or ribbon or tape bows as desired.
Note: The sleeves for this pattern are interchangeable with the sleeves of
LMM #137 and vice versa. Scallop skirt trim should be made with fabric that does
not fray easily and does not have a right and wrong side.